This auction is for two mustang shells. A rusted 1965 mustang GT coupe ( Yellow one on trailer)  and a solid 1966 coupe rolling shell.( Blue one on the ground) The GT coupe needs total restoration and the 1966 coupe is a solid shell and would be a perfect donor to fix the GT car. The blue 1966 car is a factory C code car and is rolling 5 lug  drum brake shell and has all the factory metal still intact. All I would do is patch or replace the pass quarter skin on the 1966 car if you wanted to fix it. The fenders and doors have rusted spots here and there and are not as nice as the shell, but are repairable for use on the blue car. The pass quarter has small rust holes around the wheel lip and on the bottom of the quarter, but the rest of the shell is solid. The trunk pans, floor pans, frame rails and all are still factory solid. and usable as is. The blue 1966 car has an open title Alaska title ( a military car its been all around the world) , and the rusted yellow GT coupe has a bill of sales only. (I?ve had it for 10 years and I own 3 other 1965-66 GT cars, that are not for sale) The gt coupe is an A-code body, and still has the factory GT sway bar, fog light switch hole in the dash, duel exhaust reinforcements under the rear seat pan, old brackets for the duel exhaust, and GT steering box and such. What you see in the 24 pictures listed are all the parts that go with this auction. The blue rolling car with trans in it, and the yellow car on the trailer with loose stuff in it.  You would need another donor car to make a complete car, but my auction will give you a good start with a solid C code coupe body, and a rusted GT coupe car with the A code option. I can have the open Alaska title changed to a Florida title in my name if buyer wants it that way. I can also get an Alabama tag receipt and the Alabama paperwork from a Non Title State for the GT coupe if the buyer wants it instead of the bill of sales.( check your state laws on what you need to do to get a title from a pre 1975 car with no title in Alabama.) This will cost the buyer my cost ONLY, and can be requested at the end of the auction and added to the final bid price for billing purposes. These cars are local pickup only, and I will work with a transport company to load them at buyers? request. I will work with the company the buyer sends to me, and you can place bids on internet ship sites for shippers to bid in picking them up for you as a vehicle that needs a winch to load and one that needs a wheel lift.. I will also store these cars for 1 month after auction for free if your coming this way and can pick one or both of them up yourself.( I?ll help you load them) The cars are located 5 miles north of I-10 in the Marianna Florida , Zip 32446. Please ask any questions before you bid, and if you have a feedback less than 94% or less than 10 feedbacks, than ask before you bid. I will cancel and block your bid to weed out kids playing with mom?s computer, if you don?t ask first. Thanks again for looking and please ask any and all questions before you bid, and I will answer them before you bid. These cars will sale and the solid body is worth the starting price of the auction. If buyer only wants the solid car shipped only, I can cut or unbolt the parts he wants off the GT and throw them in the solid cars shell. ( and scrap the left over metal)  This will save on shipping cost, but will cost the buyer 50 to 100.00 extra for the trouble and supplies to do this.  I thank you for looking and I have 75 other pictures if you want to see something specific. Thanks again and remember to BID TO WIN. 500.00 due within a week after the end of auction and the remainder due the next week, for payment in full in 2 weeks after the auction. This will give me time to do anything the buyer request after the auction if needed.

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I added 3 pictures of the Pass quarter you asked for. I would replace the whole skin if I was to keep the blue car. Its cheaper for me to have a skin replaced than it is to patch holes here and there. This is coming from a guy who can't weld. My welder friends said they would patch it if it was there car. Its cheaper for me to have the skin replaced, but if your a welder you can patch it instead. Also it does have traction bars on the blue car and the yoke is missing on it. ( see picture) The yellow car does have a yoke and a complete 1965-66 mustang 5 bolt rear end. The pictures in the auctions are all that comes with the car. YOu will need another car to complete the build, for interior, drive train, wiring, brackets, bumpers, and to much little stuff to mention. THe blue car can be parked beside a running rusty car and made a solid running blue car that needs 1 quarter worked on and a paint job. The GT car would need a good welder and alot of patience to fix, its pretty rusty. ( But it is a factory GT) If the picture of the underside looks good, than its the blue car, if it looks bad its the yellow GT. I know the yellow car is a GT, due to owning 2 GT coupes and 1 GT FB. THere are no Marty reports to prove this on a Pre 1967 Car. How do I know the yellow car is a GT? 1st. The yellow car has the hole in the dash for the fog light switch drilled from the back. This makes the edge or bevel on the interior side. This was drilled while the metal dash was off the car at the factory and the Line worker was installing the GT Package harness and switch (at the factory). 2nd. Quick ratio steering box, and larger front swaw bar. 3rd. Factory Gt exhaust hangers under the rear seat. 4th,  the rear brake hose bracket from factory moved more to the left to clear the factory placed duel exhaust. ( GT package option again)5th. It has the little peices of tubes ( placed factory) in the rear frame rails. This is so when you tightened the exhaust hangers beside the rear tank it wont collapse the rear frame rail. 6th. It has the extra holes in the radiator support for the GT fog light harness to go through. ( you can see the holes but the radiator support is dented up/rusty) 7th. Only a A code or K-code could have the GT package factory, and this is a A-code 289 4 barrel . Dealer installed GT packages could be put on these cars even if they were C-code, but this wone has all the factory placed duel exhaust stuff. The yellow GT is never going to be fixed by me, but I want it to go to someone who might fix it or something. The blue car is just there if you need the extra solid metal and have a welder and allot of patience, you can fix the GT. The complete floor pan section and the trunk pan section repop cost over 1000.00.  The blue car has this still in good usable shape, to cut out and use. I did talk to the guy I got it from and he said it was blasted and painted 2-3 years ago. This is why everything is blue, and the engine compartment is gloss black. The blue paint is coming off in places and on some of the seams it has surface rust unter the paint. I scraped these areas with a screw driver to see if it was rusted through and it was not, but the paint was pealing in areas. For this auction its a package deal for both cars, and I will not stop the auction for you to buy one car. I think they will both sell on this auction, and if they don't I'll think about posting them on 2 separate auctions. They will cost more each on separate auctions due to E-bay charging me for two car sale auctions instead of one. This is the best deal for getting 2 cars if you want a factory GT rusty car, and a solid coupe rolling car. Thanks again and ask for any additional pictures before you bid. I have about 100 extra pictures if your undecided. Thanks again for looking and I hope these go to a good home.